Spending time w/ Moya Andrew’s yesterday as she celebrated her 10th anniversary of Focus on Flowers called to mind an old podcast of hers. If you are looking for deer resistant plants here’s a great list of plants she has found that are less tasty to our four legged foe.
To read about all the AWESOME things our PHC group is doing click HERE or go through the service tab at the top of the page…
FACT… 20-30% of the trees in the midwest region are common ash (fraxinus americana). There are studies now that say the threat of new insects (like EAB) will cause more change to the ecosystem than global climate change of temperature. Just imagine… on the low end if we lost 10% of our forest trees over the next 5 years what will happen.
Emerald Ash Borer has arrived in Bloomington! If you have Ash trees and want to save them give us a call. We use the Arbor Jet Viper system with Tree Age insecticide as it has proven to be very effective against this destructive pest.
Here’s a great link from the Purdue Extension for more information or you can email Joe (DHS Arborist) directly at email@example.com.
As the rush of spring started late it looks like it may be short lived as well. Now is the time to be checking for winter damage on all your landscape plants. This includes those time tested favorites we all thought were zone hardy. Here’s a link to a great video put out by our friends at Purdue to help explain the effects of old man winter.
The launch is official & our new website is up and running. There are a few blog posts w/ many more to be added in the months to come. Please feel free to subscribe to our site and post any landscaping questions/comments that you have on a particular article. You can also email us directly through the contact page.
Many native plants tend to be deep-rooted, strutting their stuff, their blooms, in late summer and fall. These include asters, coneflowers, sunflowers, sneezeweed, bergamot, milkweeds, blazing stars, goldenrods, culver’s root, turtleheads, Joe Pye weed, cup plant, compass plant, wild senna and grasses such as big and little bluestem.
Other deep-rooted perennials offering earlycolor and interest include false indigo, sweet flags, irises, penstemons, celandine poppies and meadowsweet.
Using native plants in rain gardens, bioswales, prairie and wildflower gardens maximizes sustainability because they are tough, hardy and reliable. The gardener using native plants lowers the risk of losing plant stock during drought. Because many of these plants are so adaptable, they often weather rainy springs and winters common in our part of the country.
Other drought-tolerant plants include dry denizens such as Russian sage and other sages, lamb’s ears, sedum, hens-and-chicks, daylilies, and the long line of clumping, spreading plants that work well in herb gardens: lavender, rosemary, yarrow, artemesia, hyssop, oregano, thyme, catmint and calamint. Fragrant plants also have an advantage; they’re not popular with deer, which can’t stand their smelly aroma.
Gardening doesn’t have to mean buying expensive, high-maintenance, exotic plants that last only aseason or two. Don’t lose out; choose proven, adaptable performers that spread and stand up to adverse conditions.
The wail of homeowners discovering their yards prone to four-legged intruders is all too familiar: “We tried everything to deter deer: repellents, soap hanging in trees, human hair, even urine. The deer would not leave our gardens alone.”
Experts agree that one of the surest ways to keep deer out is fencing. The type of fence is usually dictated by budget, aesthetics, site conditions and how many months of the year protection is needed.
Prefab deer netting, stretched between metal posts or trees, offers a flexible, lightweight, easy-to-install, less expensive method for low to moderate deer pressure. Netting works well in hilly areas where rigid wire fencing is more difficult to install, and offers temporary solutions, perhaps in spring and fall when deer are more troublesome.
Heavier-duty, ultraviolet light-resistant, polypropylene varieties, often 7 ½-8 feet tall, are available. Nylon cable run horizontally through the top of the netting and three feet above ground (considered deer’s highest impact area) further secures the netting. Stress points where gates are installed usually require larger posts, perhaps anchored in concrete.
More permanent and vulnerable garden settings, such as orchards, vegetable and rose gardens, may mandate sturdier, more expensive woven- , braided- and welded-wire fences, slanted fences, double-row fences or electric fences. Again, wire fences are recommended to be at least 8 feet tall with 12-foot-tall posts to enable them to be buried 3-4 feet.
Slanted fences with repeated parallel single strands of wire, extending outward at a 45-degree angle, need not be as tall as standard fences, requiring deer to clear both the height and width of the fence. Double-row fences 4-5 feet apart also need be only 4-5 feet tall, also playing on deer fears of jumping without landing safely.
While electric fences offer deterrence at generally lower cost than wire fences, their use mandates precautions. Chargers, either 110-volt or battery types, often must be protected from the elements. Desirable chargers emit higher voltage, lower-amperage current at short pulses to “teach deer a lesson.” Plastic polytape fence maximizes visibility and arrests deer curiosity. A type of copper and polyester braided wire, used on horse farms, also works well.
After installation, electric fences should be monitored regularly.
WRITTEN BYBob Baird DHS Landscape Designer/Consultant Garden Columnist
We all wish this was us… Living out our own real-life version of Swiss Family Robinson. Our “work-first” programming as a responsible adult tells us our inherent desire to live outdoors is childish. Childish [adj.}=Suitable for a child. This definition however gives no restrictions or state that it can not also be "Suitable for an ADULT". Creating living spaces outside or outdoor living rooms (HOUZZ LINK) are a growing trend. "Staycations" are great for families and growing in popularity across the world. Building outdoor living rooms can include a variety of elements and be as simple or complex as you like but once you get much further past a grill and lawn chairs consulting a professional will reward your efforts. Even for DIYers a design and construction details can help sustain your investment. Remember the greatest efforts are in the preparation... Walking surfaces require proper base to provide pleasing aesthetics and safety for all walks of life (infant-elder). Any natural elements such as firepits or water features need to be installed properly with grading and drainage in mind. Remember you don't want exploding stone in your firepit or water from your bubbling rock running into your basement or crawlspace.
Take the time to do it right the first time. Wheither your "Father", Elizabeth, or Franz we all have dreams to be The Swiss Family (INSERT YOUR NAME HERE).
That are lots of variables that determine the quality of drainage around your home. Often IMPROPER SLOPE (i.e. rise/run) is a commonly overlooked issue when installing a new landscape. Proper drainage systems are a difficult for the home owner and contractor to come to terms on. It’s a expense that can be quite costly and is usually all buried underground and gives no asetic benifit to the home. Designscape’s favorite solution is to use the skill of grading to revert water to more ideal locations. A great way is through a dry creek bed. Installation methods vary but the best method is the look at one built by mother nature and try to recreate it.
The soil you use to prepare beds and turf areas is more vaulable than a lifetime of fertilzer after the fact. Mixing compost into your topsoil is the best way to add OM and encourage healthy root growth. The first and second week of September is ideal time for cool season grass like fescue. Here’s a picture of a lawn in the spring that we aerated, overseeded, and spread 2-4-3 poultry castings. All fertilization is 100% ORGANIC WITH DHS ENHANCED COMPOST TEA.